A city called Galle

he capital of the southern province is a city with a colourful history. UNESCO declared World Heritage Site the magnificent Dutch fort is the most popular attraction of the town. 300 year old Dutch atmosphere is still very much alive around the fort and amidst its many historical buildings not invaded by the skyscrapers. The beautiful beach of Unawatuna is just 6km south east of the city centre.

The southern coastal belt is the most popular among the tourists and comes to life mainly from October through April when the monsoon moves northeast and the sea becomes calm with blue skies. The earliest European administrative centre of Sri Lanka was the major port and the largest city until the British shifted the port to Colombo. The City of Galle had been the European administrative centre over 4 centuries.

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Home to an International Cricket Stadium, and 115 km from Colombo, Galle is perhaps one of the most important cities on the South Coast. Now fast acquiring a reputation as the starting point of Sri Lanka’s equivalent to the “Riviera”, the city’s origins are shrouded in legend and mystery. Some believe that it is the Tarshish of the Old Testament, which channelled a thriving trade in exotic luxuries including precious metals and stones, ivory, tropical beasts and of course spices. This whitewashed town has an extremely large fort, built by the Dutch over 400 years ago, as its oldest landmark. A number of important churches are located within the fort, including the Groote Kerk, the oldest Protestant church in Sri Lanka.

A living, breathing city of important historical significance, Galle greets visitors as the gateway to the south. The small promontory that Galle sits upon was a natural haven, and provided safe anchor for Arab merchant vessels plying the ancient sea-lanes connecting the Orient with the Occident. However, it was a Portuguese fleet that “discovered” it by chance in 1505 and observed Arab merchants loading cinnamon and elephants onto their ships. This first landfall by a European maritime power on the island, hastened Galle’s colonial eminence as a shipping and passenger port. Indeed, the event was pivotal in the nation’s history, as it changed the fate of the whole country and an ancient civilization, forever.

Making the circuit of the fort walls is extremely pleasant – especially at dusk. This should take you about two hours, and if you follow the walls clockwise you will eventually come to the Old Gate flanked by two lions and topped by a cockerel, which dates back to 1669. It now houses the National Maritime Museum. The museum is open from 9am to 5pm daily, and has exhibits ranging from pickled sea creatures to fibreglass whales. The Cultural Museum, Groote Kerk (Great Church), Flag rock, the modern Lighthouse, the Bell tower and the old Dutch Government House (reputedly haunted!) are also worth visiting. Old colonial mansions dot the area, well preserved and worth looking over. The Dutch Period Museum is beautifully restored and exhibits the clothes, furniture, jewellery and even the cooking utensils of the Dutch colonial era.

The area is agreeably quiet and easy going, and is famous for exquisite hand-made lace, and gems. Sailing, deep-sea fishing and yachting are very popular here, and on occasion you can even get a crewing position onboard a yacht sailing from Sri Lanka.

The towns has bus and train stations, shops, banks, a post office and communications offices. Accommodation is varied, and ranges from a beautifully restored old lighthouse and villa, to more budget friendly guesthouses.There are plenty of buses and trains at all times of the day, and you can take a ‘tuk tuk’ to the nearby town of Unawatuna for a very reasonable price. Trains from here can also take you to Anuradhapura, Kandy and the seas side town of Matara.

World Heritage Site

The old town abounds with history and its preservation has to be attributed to its abandonment as the premier port. Most of the old town has remained mercifully intact as the British made few changes. Galle was made a World Heritage Site in 1988, in recognition of the influence it once wielded during a decisive period in the nation’s history and the consequent legacy it has endowed upon her.

What to see in Galle?

Ancient Harbour

The Portuguese built a small and primitive stockade in Galle in 1594, which became the Fort of St. Cruz in 1625. This fell to the Dutch after a long siege and bloody fighting in 1640. Galle was handed over to the British in 1796, who continued to use it as the chief port for goods and passengers alike. The lovely headland of Galle with its backdrop of gentle hills provided the first sight of Sri Lanka for most travellers coming in for the next 80 years, as it had done for an age before. However, the beauty of the harbour hid the treachery of the rocky shore which during the monsoons made Galle a dangerous port at times. Steamship companies threatened not to call at Galle and demanded a safer haven for their ships. So Sri Lanka’s largest and most important port faded into a backwater as the British built an artificial breakwater at Colombo, which then became the more prominent harbour. Galle still handles some shipping and large yatchs today.

Dutch Fort

Portuguese built the first fort to withstand attack from the Sri Lankan kingdoms to the north. Dutch who captured the coastal cities from the Portuguese improved the defence system of the fort, widening the moat on the landside, improving the ramparts and the bastions. British who captured the city did not make many changes as they shifted the part to the northern town of Colombo and therefore the atmosphere of Dutch days are preserved to date. The Dutch entrance to the fort with it VOC with 1669 carved in the inner archway is still in use. Still there are many old Dutch buildings intact and, but unfortunately except for those in the private hands. The ramparts and the bastions still bring to life the old world.

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Dutch Reformed Church

Built by a Dutch Army officer at the site of a previous Portuguese church and completed in 1754 the church is situated close to the new entrance to the fort. The church contains record of marriages since 1748 and baptism from 1678. The other significant of the building id there are no pillars inside the building and the weight of the roof is supported by the walls.

Colonial Architecture

This delightful city offers to the appreciative eye many fine Dutch period buildings including villas, mansions and bungalows all crammed together, their famous tiled roofs jostling each other for space. There are also a few interesting museums and old hotels to visit, while the Groote Kerk or great church, built on a Portuguese convent dating from 1640, is the probably the oldest Protestant church in Sri Lanka. The charming old streets provide lovely, serene walks in contrast to the bustle of the new town just outside.

Shopping

Lace making is a popular handicraft here. Brussels and the more contemporary Honiton type lace is available. This type of lace is handmade on pillows. Another popular local craft is gem polishing. Several jewellers shops are located here. Carved pieces of ebony are another option if lace and jewelery don’t fascinate you. Without having a souvenir a visit to Galle is incomplete.

Unawatuna

The Beach

The Beach takes no back seat to any other in the world. It is a stunning tropical beach. Five km southeast of  VOC Galle Dutch Fort of Sri Lanka is Unawatuna, a small (1km), wide & intimate semi circular bay with its picturesque sweep of golden, pristine beach which is terminated by a shining pure white Buddhist stupa (Dagoba) sitting pretty on a green hill. The Beach is enclosed by headland on the other side too. The entire stretch of beach is well sheltered by a sweep of palm-fringed land right behind it. And well protected too: the beach enclosed by double reef breaks down the impact of the waves of Indian Ocean to make it ideal for safe swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving & even for you to learn surfing. The reef shelters more species of fish than the Great Barrier Reef. It is said by many industry experts to be among the top ten beaches of the world. The reef off the far end of the beach, 150m offshore can be reached from shore & you can even venture into the main waters of the Indian Ocean by traditional twin log like fishing catamaran made solely of timber.

Wreck Dives

Galle seaport, the first landing seaport of the Arabs, the Portuguese, the Dutch & the English being only 5 km away, Unawatuna provides several interesting Wreck Dives too. Lord Nelson, a cargo ship & Rangoon are reachable. Those are only 20-30 minutes away from the beach by boat.

Turtles in Unawatuna

At Unawatuna , with a bit of luck the tourists may witness turtles laying eggs along the shore. Diving also affords the opportunity to enjoy the sight of these magnificent sea turtles swimming around in the blue waters of the Indian Ocean.

The Twin Reefs at Unawatuna

Protected by a double reef over the bay creates a natural pool that makes the bay safe for swimmers.
From the midway of the stretch the swimmers are able to reach the Rock island. The Galapiteala Reef and Napoleon Reef, offering multi level dives brings in opportunities to enjoy exceptional marine life: Napoleon Wrasse, Bat Fish, Golden Moray Eels and numerous other colourful species of fish can be found here.

Diving, Snorkelling and Surfing at Unawatuna

Besides swimming, the Unawatuna beach is also famous for snorkelling and surfing. The wrecks of sunken ships make the Unawatuna beach popular among scuba divers too. A boat ride of 20 to 30 minutes takes the diving enthusiasts to locations of wreck dives.

The wreck of “Rangoon”- the British steamer sunken 100 years ago, can be found lying upright with its masts intact. This is a popular diving site in Unawatuna . Within the same area is the “Tango” which also attracts many divers. The other location, a wreck of a cargo ship called “Lord Nelson” is about ten years old. Diving schools at Unawatuna are available offering services to diving enthusiasts: they assist, equip and guide tourists to engage in diving activities
in Unawatuna .

Buddhist Temple

Apart from the beach, the scenery right behind the beach is unlike any other in the world, with the stupa perked on the top of a green hill. Where else can you windsurf while admiring Stupa (Buddhist temple), the epitome of Buddhist architecture? You can stroll up to the dagoba (stupa) on top of the hill.

Trekking & Rumassala Hill

Here is an unexpected bonus for the trekkers too. As if swimming, surfing, diving wouldn’t do, you will be strolling over the rocks rising from west end of the beach. The grand rocky outcrop that rises sheer behind the village, on the west end of the beach is legendary. The hill, Rumassala is home to a large collection of medicinal herbs. It sports entertaining gangs of boisterous macaque monkeys. In the great Indian epic, Ramayana, Lord Hanuman, king of the non-human Vanara tribe was sent by India’s Lord Rama to Himalayas to fetch a herb to save his brother Lakshmana, who was mortally wounded in their battle against Lanka’s King Ravana of non-human tribe “Yaksa”. Having failed to identify the plant, Lord Hanuman, rose to occasion & became larger than the problem (with apologies to Sudha Murthy of Infosys – How I taught my Grandmother to read), larger than the life, larger than the herb congested mountainside of Himalayas & ripped off a whole hill & brought it to Lanka. But then in his haste, he managed to drop off a couple of chunks. One is the Rumassala hill, the other being Ritigala hill. Both hills are home to rare plants & herbs: protected areas. The sea bordering Rumassala has the Bona Vista reef, home to some of the best-preserved coral in the island. The summit of the hill provides excellent view across Galle Harbour towards the VOC Galle Dutch Fort. And to inland, the view is enchanting with the sight of Adam’s Peak far away.

Jungle Beach

On the other side of the headland is Jungle Beach. With another 45 minutes walk you can reach this Horse saddle shaped bay. Indeed, you can reach there by boat too, if you are unwilling to trek. This jungle beach provides fine snorkeling opportunity.A Very Calm beach to stay some time.In weekdays lot of times its only some tourists.

Unawatuna village was once a suburb where Dutch commanders and Dutch merchants living in Galle built their quiet country residences. The colonial bungalows (villas) built by them & their British successors are instrumental in making the Strand Street a scene to behold.

Interesting points Near to Galle

Stilt fishermen

The stretch of coast from Dalawela to Talpe is home to one of Sri Lanka’s unique & emblematic beach sights, stilt fisherman. The stilts consist of single pole firmly embedded in the bottom of the sea, close to the shore & a crossbar planted on to the pole on which fishermen sit tight whilst casting their lines into the sea when the tides are flowing right. So abundant is the supply of fish, stilt positions are highly lucrative, highly coveted & passed down from generation to generation.

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