Polonnaruwa — Ancient Cities 1

olonnaruwa was the country’s capital from the 11^th – 13^th Century. Polonnaruwa is considered one of the best preserved historic cities in the world. Located approximately 140km from Kandy, Polonnaruwa was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, due to its abundance of historic remains.

Most commonly referred to as Sri Lanka’s second ancient capital, the city of Polonnaruwa is nevertheless a magnificently preserved city with rich archaeological monuments and natural beauty. Located in Sri Lanka’s North Central Province, Polonnaruwa has both its ancient city, an adjoining “old town” as well as a “new town” located about 6km away. The archaeological sites are in a compact layout, within easy distance of each other, and tours are easily arranged either on foot or more popularly explored on bicycle.

As in Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa too has its share of Buddhist sites, and tour buses of pilgrims can be often seen visiting the stupas and monasteries. But Polonnaruwa also boasts an impressive array of ruined palaces and courtyards, pleasure gardens and intricate networks of bathing tanks, as well as carvings and sculptures and a rich display of artistry. The ancient city was declared a World heritage Site by UNESCO in 1982.

Polonnaruwa was first selected as a capital city by the invading Chola army of India, who ransacked the then-capital city of Anuradhapura and set up their courts in nearby Polonnaruwa, in the late 10^th Century. This decision was based on the fact that Polonnaruwa, unlike Anuradhapura, was more strategically placed to ward off any attacks from the Sinhalese armies in Ruhuna (located in the southeast of the Island). The Chola army was finally defeated and driven off the island by the Sinhalese King Vijayabahu I in 1070, and he chose to retain Polonnaruwa as the capital city of the newly united Lanka.

Polonnaruwa’s glorious age came about two centuries later, during the reign of King Parakramabahu I in the 12^th century. It was his vision that was turned into reality as Polonnaruwa became a hub of construction – palaces and royal courts, administrative buildings, extensive parks and water gardens which were feats of engineering. But he is best known in Sri Lanka, and across South Asia, for the building of the massive Parakrama Samudraya (literally, the Parakrama Sea), a 2,500 ha irrigation water reservoir or tank.

Polonnaruwa is a testament to the discipline and greatness of the country’s mediaeval rulers and considered the best planned Archeological relic sites in the country. Polonnaruwa was declared the capital city of Sri Lanka by King Vijayabahu I who ruled from 1017AD to 1235AD. Polonnaruwa was flourishing self-sustained city with a superb irrigation system.

Polonnaruwa: Points of interest

Parakrama Samudra

One of the most striking features in Polonnaruwa is the vast Parakrama Samudra (Sea of Parakramabahu), an irrigation tank built, as the name indicates by King Parakramabahu the Great.  This was his largest irrigation project and covers an area of more than 15 Km2.The dam (or bund, as it is known in Sri Lanka, is almost 14 Km long and 12 metres high.

The waters of the Parakrama Samudraya circle the ancient city and its environs, and in ancient times served as a moat against invading armies. An intricate network of irrigation canals supplied water from this reservoir to surrounding paddy fields, ensuring that agricultural production could be carried out year-round. The hitherto rain-fed agricultural practices were transformed, and Polonnaruwa became the rice growing capital of ancient Lanka.

The Dipuyyana (Island Garden) is on the promontory by the rest house. When King Parakramabahu had built his vast lake, he selected this lovely spot for a royal garden. Later King Nissankamalla liked it so much that he built his palace and council chambers there.

Royal Palace and Council Chambers

Among the most noteworthy buildings in ancient Polonnaruwa was the Royal Palace of King Parakramabahu I. The Palace must have been an imposing edifice, and the chronicles describe it as “seven stories high, furnished with a thousand chambers”. Entering the palace from the south, you come to great hall (31 Metres long and 13 metres wide), which was probably an audience hall. Although the Palace itself is in ruins, the frieze of elephants in the main Audience Hall and the many carvings and moonstones along the entry ways to the palace buildings are worth exploring.

Across the way is the council chamber of Parakramabahu – embellished with lion portals, graceful pillars and a moonstone (a delicately carved stepping stone). The building is supported by powerful bas-relief elephants around the base. Each one is different from the next.

The structural techniques of this period were the same as those of the Anuradhapura period, but there was a greater use of lime mortar, which enabled the building of brick structures of dimensions never before attempted.

A little further on is the handsome royal bath, the Kumara Pokuna. This area was probably a part of the Royal Pleasure Garden of Parakramabahu. Water, which may have been perfumed, flowed into the bath from the sides, and the solid masses of stone ensured that even on the hottest day, the water was cool. Another feature of this garden was a shower bath, which was “like a cloud pouring forth rain by (reason of) the showers of water which flowed constantly from the pipes of the apparatus.

Siva Shrine – Siva Devale No:1.

A Hindu Temple of chaste and restrained line dedicated to God Siva. This temple dates to the later Polonnaruwa period, and was probably built during a period of Indian domination in the thirteenth century. A number of superb bronzes in mature Choler style were found at this temple, and these can be seen at the Colombo Museum.

The Thuparama in Polonnaruwa

This oblong brick image house occupies the southwest corner of the adjoining quadrangle. The Thuparama, is a large Buddhist image house.

Inside the building, in the inner sanctum, is a ruined brick and plaster pile, that was once a seated image of the Buddha. The original vaulted roof of the building is still intact. Tropical rains run down the curve of the roof, and like the gargoyles of medieval Europe, Makara (dragon) spouts drain the water to the ground.

inside-thuparama-polonnaruwa

About Polonnaruwa

The Vatadage

This circular relic house possesses an elegance and beauty that is rare even in ancient Sri Lanka. In line with the outer circle of stone pillars is a tastefully ornamented screen wall patterned with four petaled flowers.

The flights of access stairs at the cardinal points are of stone and are beautifully carved. At the head of each flight is a Buddha statue in stone. The shrine is lavished with moonstones., guard stones and sculptured writings.

The shrine, like all dagobas in Sri Lanka, is oriented towards the cardinal points – north, south, east and west. Four Buddha statues face outwards, with their backs to the dagaba mound.

Nissanka Lata Mandapaya

A very pretty pavilion, this floral altar in stone has pillars which simulate with rare grace, a lotus on a stalk. This is a sacred hall of unknown purpose, and it was built by Nissankamalla. In the centre of the building is a small model dagaba, with worshippers sculptured around the base.

The Satmahal Prasada

A square pyramidal tower in seven tiers – a Dagaba of novel design. Each side of each tier is ornamented by a figure of a deity in an arched niche. The simple, stepped design is a very ancient form of architecture which occurs in the step pyramids of Egypt, and the ziggurats of Mesopotamia. Another building of this type occurs in Thailand in the monastery of Vat Kukut at Lamphun, and both are probably derived from an earlier Indian prototype.

Hatadage

The Shrine of Sixty Relics, which stands opposite the Vatadage. It was claimed to have been built by King Nissankamalla to house the Sacred Tooth Relic and is a handsome edifice, whose plain ashlar walls are very artistically relieved by a double border of faintly incised carving. However despite Nissankamalla’s claim, it may in fact been built by Parakramabahu.

Gal Potha (Stone Book)

A massive 8 metre long and 4.3 metre wide stone slab, which lies by the side of the Hatadage is inscribed with the deeds of King Nissankamalla. The massive inscription, amongst other things, records Nissankamalla’s brief invasion of India in glowing terms, and details of his relations with foreign states, as far away as modern Pakistan and Indonesia.

 Ruins at Polonnaruwa — Info Video